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Category ‚Business‘

Raf Simons To Replace Galliano At Dior

09 April 2012, 18.31 | Posted in Business, Designer news | No comments »

RafSimonsNYT 540x297 Raf Simons To Replace Galliano At Dior

The NY Times has broken the story that Belgian designer Raf Simons (shown above) will replace John Galliano at Dior. According to the Times, talks began in October 2011:

At the time Mr. Simons, 44, was at Jil Sander. But while Mr. Simons is influential, having started the trend for bright colors that has washed over much of the affordable clothing market, and was in discussions in 2010 with the French rival PPR about taking over Yves Saint Laurent, he was not widely seen as a candidate for Dior. His minimalist designs for Jil Sander seemed at odds with Dior’s ultra-femininity. And he is a low-key presence in a business that tends to love Barnum types.

Funny, last week I was chatting with an international investor about LVMH (which owns Dior) dragging its feet on finding a Galliano replacement. He explained that LVMH let’s each house operate fairly independently and the Dior crew is known for being conservative and slow to take action, but he said that recently there had been a push from above for action and the decision would be coming down very soon. And voila, here the moment is upon us.

Dr. Martens Seeking Buyer

06 February 2012, 17.17 | Posted in Business, boots | No comments »
AgynessDeyn1 360x540 Dr. Martens Seeking Buyer

Agyness Deyn Wearing Dr. Martens

R. Griggs, owner of the Dr. Martens for over 50 years, is looking to sell the brand. Just ten years ago, it was on the edge of disaster, but it’s been on the upswing lately with sales in 2011 up close to 33 percent over the year prior, benefitting from a return to punk trends combined with the current craze for “heritage” brands (not to mention better design and marketing efforts). The boots are now manufactured for the most part in China and Thailand though the brand’s original factory in Wollaston, Northamptonshire, was reopened in 2007  to make special edition boots.

There are plenty of larger shoes companies who have made it known that they’re sniffing around for acquisitions, so it will be interesting to see who snatches up Dr. Martens. Definitely it’s not finished its growth trajectory yet, though one has to guess that is a known fact and it won’t come cheap as a result.

Rocawear Lays Off Half Its Staff

18 January 2012, 15.28 | Posted in Business, celebrity | No comments »

Rocawear 540x268 Rocawear Lays Off Half Its Staff

It’s now surfacing that Rocawear laid off just about half its staff last week, firing 28 of 56 workers. This action is being pinned on Jay Z, who along with Dame Dash founded the brand in 1999, but the company is now owned by Iconix, which purchased it in 2007 for $204 million. Jay is still invested in the brand but his contract to promote it has expired.

No one can be really shocked that this company has fallen on tough times. Urban as an apparel category is beyond the death-spiral phase and while this was a big cut in staff, there have probably been smaller cuts made over the past three years. Via Nypost.

Do Hemlines Follow The Economy?

02 May 2011, 17.55 | Posted in Business | No comments »

MarcJacobsOneShoulder Do Hemlines Follow The Economy?

There’s always been chatter that the health of the economy can be predicted by hemlines. If things are humming, skirts and dresses are supposedly shorter. Maxi lengths appear when the economy is on the way down. Well actually, a study collecting data from 1921-2009 was done to check the veracity of the claim and the conclusion appears to be dead on:

The main finding is that the urban legend holds true but with a time lag of about three years. Hence, the current economic crisis predicts ankle length shirts around 2011 and 2012.

The thing is, it seems it’s been a few springs in a row that fashion has pushed for long dresses, but they never do seem to take off in no small part because it’s not an easy look to pull off! So perhaps the formula will be finding itself challenged by a female population who is more resistant than ever to being dictated to.

By the way, the half long/half short dress featured above is by Marc Jacobs.

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Carol’s Daughter Launches ‘Polyethnic’ Ad Campaign

15 April 2011, 13.50 | Posted in Business, Make- up,Cosmetics, advertisement, celebrity | 1 comment »

CarrolsDaughter Carols Daughter Launches Polyethnic Ad Campaign

Brooklyn-born beauty line, Carol’s Daughter, founded by Lisa Price (who started selling at street fairs assisted by a friend of mine!), recently announced plans for a new marketing campaign featuring Solange Knowles, Selita Ebanks and Cassie. According to Steve Stoute (yes, the music industry guy), who is the lead investor, the model’s were chosen for their “polyethnic” backgrounds:

“What we’re doing now is moving into a polyethnic space. We want to be the first beauty brand that truly captures the beauty of the tapestry of skin types in America. When I say polyethnic, I mean women who are made up of several ethnicities. If you ask them what they are, they’re going to use a lot of different words to describe themselves. That’s in line with the Census data coming out — people are checking much more than two boxes. We believe we’ve put together a shoot that celebrates many different ethnicities, to become a mirror of what America’s really becoming.”

That may be true, but given racial politics in America, it’s hard to believe that the message behind this campaign isn’t going to ruffle some feathers since making claims to be “mixed” is still viewed by many as a politically incorrect attempt to escape being black. So….let’s see what discussions arise from this, but complete silence would suprise me.

Galliano Booted From His Own Label

15 April 2011, 13.10 | Posted in Business, Designer news | 1 comment »

JohGallianoSpring2011 Galliano Booted From His Own Label

Despite having the empathy of most of his peers in the design community, things keep getting worse for disgraced designer John Galliano, who has been fired from his job as head of the John Galliano label, 91 percent of which is owned by Christain Dior.

According to a WWD article, there are some companies who have expressed interest in purchasing the label, including some of its licensing partners. However, it is looking like at the moment no effort has been made to put the John Galliano label on the block and supposedly the in-house design team continues to produce and a pre-Spring collection is in the works, which, how weird will that be sans Galliano? And given that he was fired basically for being the poster child for anti-Semitism is there any hope of rehabilitating a label named after him?

The image above was taken at the Spring 2011 runway show for John Galliano. By the time of his Autumn 2011 show in early March, the axe had fallen and Galliano was absent from a salon presentation of what would be his final collection for the label. Via Style.

Head Designer Fashion House Puzzle

12 April 2011, 13.52 | Posted in Business, Fashion | No comments »

gallery stilisti 241279 0x440 540x411 Head Designer Fashion House Puzzle

Lately it seems fashion houses feel the need to reshuffle, realign their aesthetics and mostly figure out who they will associate with as a head designer. Vogue Italia  illustrates what seems like a big  fashion house and head designer puzzle, read the article here.

Video: Anna Wintour ‘Bloomberg Game Changers’ Preview

31 March 2011, 21.58 | Posted in Business, celebrity | No comments »


Anna Wintour will be profiled on “Bloomberg Game Changers,” at 8pm est tonight. Interesting how Wintour has been spending a lot more energy raising her profile it seems ever since The Devil Wore Prada. Perhaps she looked around the landscape and concluded that being a celebrity is a part of doing business these days. If you want to watch, it’s being shown on Bloomberg Televsion, which, as much reality TV, basketball games and various and sundry other junk I watch, can’t say that channel rings any bell so good luck with that. To be honest, based on the preview it doesn’t look all that juicy, with canned comments like, “Anna is the single most influential person in the world of fashion, etc, blah blah.” A lot of people mindlessly repeat that line, but really? Is she? She’s the editor of one magazine that receives very mixed reviews in the fashion world so I’m not so sure that’s accurate. Via Racked.

Riccardo Tisci Supposedly Replacing Galliano At Dior

09 March 2011, 15.46 | Posted in Business, Couture | 1 comment »

GivenchyRiccardoTisci1 Riccardo Tisci Supposedly Replacing Galliano At Dior

All sorts of fashion sites have said it’s been “confirmed” that Riccardo Tisci, currently the head designer for Givenchy, will be replacing John Galliano at Christian Dior. At this point the confirmation seems to be a lot of people repeating the same rumor on Twitter, making it far from official news. If it is him, just to get up to speed, Tisci was born in Italy, is 35 and began designing for Givenchy in February 2005. Christian Dior is publically traded and thus very numbers minded so if it is indeed looking at Tisci, it’s in part because Givenchy has grown since Tisci landed there, with an added plus that over his past few collections he’s begun to really hit his stride creatively. Another plus is that Givenchy, like Christian Dior, is a couture label so there would be less of a adjustment period in that respect.

Still, while he may be a great candidate and the only one on Dior’s short list, given the intense level of scandal it just experienced, you’d have to guess that its doing a very, very thorough background check of Tisci so even if he’s the company’s No. 1 nominee, it could be a minute before the announcement is made official.

Galliano Let Go By Dior!

01 March 2011, 15.58 | Posted in Business, Couture | 1 comment »

According to WWD:

In the wake of mounting allegations that John Galliano made anti-Semitic and racial slurs on multiple occasions, Christian Dior has fired its star couturier with immediate effect. In a brief statement, Dior said because of the “odious behavior” of Galliano portrayed in a video circulated Monday, Dior has sidelined him and initiated proceedings to fire him. Sidney Toledano, Dior’s president and chief executive officer, said, “I condemn most firmly the statements made by John Galliano which are total contradiction with the essential values that have always been defended by the House of Christian Dior.”

According to the article, Christian Dior plans to go ahead with the runway show scheduled for this Friday. Galliano had been with the label since 1996.