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Alexander Wang Confirmed As Balenciaga Designer

30 November 2012, 14.33 | Posted in Designer news | 2 comments »

AlexanderWang Alexander Wang Confirmed As Balenciaga Designer
After Cathy Horyn’s story yesterday tagging Alexander Wang as the lead candidate to take the helm at Balenciaga, we now have confirmaton via WWD that the 28-year-old Wang has been tapped as the creative director for Balenciaga. He succeeds Nicolas Ghesquière, who is to officially exit the French label today. On the choice, WWD comments:

“The choice of Wang suggests Balenciaga might wish to dial down the elitist, couture-like approach of Ghesquière, and open up to a broader audience with a designer prized for his sportswear approach and youthful energy.”

Wang’s Chinese lineage is significant as well (would he be the first to head a major European label?), and in an interivew with WWD earier in the year he spoke  on the impact of his background:

“In a way, I know there’s an audience that connects with me. How I identify that or what I pinpoint that to, whether it’s because of my background or because I connect with people of my generation in New York or London — that, I don’t know how to explain or quantify.”

Given Ghesquière’s success at reviving Balenciaga and his popularity purely as a designer, Wang as a choice will be questioned and criticized, but having covered him closely over the years he strikes us as the perfect fit–a bright student of fashion, who will understand the importance of paying tribute to Balenciaga’s history with enough creative flair and daring to make it his own. And then, too, the press adore him, and with industry capas Anna Wintour and Diane Von Furstenberg as his fairy godmothers, he is pretty much guaranteed acceptance from the get go.



Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign By Hedi Slimane

09 October 2012, 13.24 | Posted in Fashion, advertisement | 1 comment »

YSL 8 Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2013 Campaign By Hedi Slimane
After his debut show for Saint Laurent Paris, creative director Hedi Slimane released a promotional campaign for the Spring/Summer collection 2013 featuring top model Anja Rubik. After all the drama around this collection, it’s kind of refreshing to be able to just focus on the clothes … Check out the spread after the jump.

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Cathy Horyn vs. Hedi Slimane: Race To The Bottom

03 October 2012, 20.13 | Posted in Designer news, Editor News, Runway Show | 4 comments »

SlimaneLetter 540x361 Cathy Horyn vs. Hedi Slimane: Race To The Bottom

In a nutshell: NY Times fashion critic Cathy Horyn didn’t get invited to the Saint Laurent show held this week during Paris Fashion Week, subsequently she blew up the situation in her column, and then proceeded to blast the collection down to the ground. Apparently there is old beef between Horyn and newly-installed Saint Laurent designer, Hedi Sliman, so the lack of invite was not accidental. Slimane today responded with a Twitter letter (shown above) addressing Horyn. It reads:

Miss Horyn is a schoolyard bully and also a little bit of a stand-up comedian.
Insiders argue she is an average writer, and a bit provincial, but I disagree, she did some great things. Her biggest achievement so far is a book about Bill Blass, that I haven’t read. It might be terrific, and I’ll be happy to recommend it, if it helps the sales.
I also often hear that her sense of style is seriously challenged, providing that she is meant to be an authority in the village. This is totally irrelevant, no one has ever asked for her to be an inspiration to others after all, and likely it would never happen anyway.
Besides, and amusingly, her agenda is seriously thick and perfectly predictable. She is a woman on a mission, and this season she is on fire.
Miss Horyn also works for the New York Times, as everyone knows, where conflicts of interest might seem a little out of place and where being partial, or too friendly with the locals might not be an option.
In conclusion, and as far as I’m concerned, she will never get a seat at Saint Laurent, but might get 2 for 1 at Dior. She should rejoice. I don’t mind critics, but they have to come from a fashion critic, not a publicist in disguise. I am quite mesmerized she did get away with it for so many years.
And by the way come to visit our new website at ysl.com.
Sincerely yours.

And now Horyn has volleyed back, saying, “It’s just silly nonsense.” Well now that’s what you say! On the one hand I’m clapping my hands with glee as I plow through the popcorn, but on the other I’m thinking despite the old adage about any publicity, this is not a good look for either party.



First Look: Kanye West Dw Spring/Summer 2012

01 October 2011, 22.59 | Posted in Fashion, Fashion Week | 4 comments »

kanye west shoe First Look: Kanye West Dw Spring/Summer 2012

Mtv Style gives us a close up of some pieces of Kanye’s show that we see as directional and cool, the backpack fur hints of our beloved Helmut Lang and something about the woman he portrays reminds us of Carine Roitfeld. The shoes by Giuseppe Zanotti are love. Cathy Horyn already had this to say, we say meow (!):

Next season Kanye should get a tailor so clothes might fit. Models swimming in some looks. Kills the hot look, no?-CathyHoryn Twitter.

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Lady Gaga On Cover Of October Bazaar Magazine

07 September 2011, 15.20 | Posted in Magazines, Music, celebrity | 1 comment »

LadyGagaBazaar (3)

Another cover for Lady Gaga, wearing minimal makeup (all MAC cosmetics)  and a Hussein Chalayan dress in a shoot styled by Nicola Formichetti for Bazaar magazine’s October issue. Gaga is in an interesting spot it seems these days. The fashion world has grown bored with her (albeit temporarily entertained by her feud with Cathy Horyn) and all but her most dedicated Monsters seem less than impressed with her latest musical offerings. Will she find her way out of the current backlash she’s experiencing? Tough call to make, she’s quite the force, though sometimes that’s not enough.Via Bazaar.

More images on the next page.

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Proenza Schouler ‘Bright’ Rope Bracelets

15 February 2011, 12.56 | Posted in Accessories | 1 comment »

ProenzaFront Proenza Schouler Bright Rope Bracelets

Proenza Schouler is offering a collection of “Bright,” unisex rope bracelets. Opening Ceremony put these up yesterday, just in time for Valentine’s Day. Meanwhile the Proenza Schouler runway show is tomorrow and this may be very New York City-ish centric, but there’s this bit of a tug of a war as to who is lately grabbing more of the Downtown girls’ fickle heart–the Proenza Schouler or Alexander Wang (insert which would you rather poll here–PS-1 or Rocco).

And not that her opinion impacts this particular debate but NY Times critic Cathy Horyn is clearly not feeling Alex Wang still. After slamming his Spring collection flat out (it wasn’t his time, Cathy), this time around she said more or less his show had only a few okay pieces and that it didn’t matter anyway because he makes it up as he goes along because what you see on the runway is not what you see at retail. Like, whatever, Alex! But then she very criptically made a comment about designer Daryl K, and how her clothes are great, but somehow she doesn’t have the same success as Alex & co. (could it be she had kids and was semi-retired and dealing with the near death of her label for a hot minute??) Anyway, more of those “Bright” bracelets on the next page.

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Carine Roitfeld Spotted In Givenchy At Amfar Event

10 February 2011, 15.13 | Posted in Models, Out on the town, celebrity | No comments »

AmfarCarineRoitfeld&DVF

We have a post-Vogue-Paris-break-up photo of Carine Roitfeld (that’s her with Diane Von Furstenberg above), spotted in Givenchy in New York last night at the Amfar Gala, which raises funds for AIDS research. Perhaps not coincidentally, we read on Fashioncopious this morning of more rumors on her departure from Vogue. The latest version, which comes from Cathy Horyn at the NY Times, is that there were complaints about her lack of presence as a manager (a la Nina Garcia and Elle) and Roitfeld offered in a threatening sort of way to resign….like, oh, you don’t like it, then fine, I’ll leave! And much to her surprise, the response was, great, don’t let the door hit on your way out! And part of the fallout was that Roitfeld and Emmanuelle Alt, who nabbed the editor in chief spot, are no longer speaking. Quelle novella!

After the flip, a better view of Roitfeld’s dress, plus images of Iman, Anna Wintour and her bestie Blake Lively, Donna Karan, Karen Elson performing, and Olivier Theyskens.

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Balmain Denim Cut-Off Shorts

21 January 2011, 00.13 | Posted in Fashion, Retail | 3 comments »

 Balmain Denim Cut Off Shorts

The Balmain collection that irritated the heck out of NY Times fashion editor Cathy Horyn is now on sale on the label’s site. Looking at it with fresh eyes, all the motorcycle jackets and straight-legged jeans do seem a tad dated, but then again, there’s something decadently appealing about the way the label combines the ultimate casual looks with luxury workmanship as epitomized by the denim shorts on this page. And the Balmain customer seems to agree…a lot of the collection is sold out. That’s what’s weird about the instant reaction to runway shows–it’s sometimes hard to separate the sensational zeitgeist moment, which journalism demands, versus the actual clothes themselves, not to mention the customer who they’re designed to appeal to.

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Balmain Spring 2011 Runway Video: Getting Slammed!

30 September 2010, 21.14 | Posted in Fashion Week, Ridiculous Pricing, Runway Show | 3 comments »

My first response when I saw Balmain’s Spring/Summer 2011 images from Paris Fashion Week was surprise, as in, wow, they’re going there again?? And at the prices they charge? But my opinion was mild compared to one of the industry’s fiercest critics, Cathy Horyn, whose review I just read on Racked:

“The clothes were great for showing off the models’ long bodies, and so will produce sexy photographs, but punk is now a style cliché. That Balmain is one of the most expensive labels, with a plain undershirt (without holes) costing around $450, makes the notion of a safety-pinned jacket something of a joke—and not even a very clever one.”

Some of the garments Balmain showed are obviously gorgeous and totally covetable (lush punk if you will), however, ever since the appearance on the scene of “that” tee shirt, the recipe for a backlash began to be mixed and this seemingly lazy runway was the final ingredient. How far the ripples extend from this ugly little moment is always hard to say without an inside track.



Alex Wang Backstage Pre-Runway Video

13 September 2010, 19.08 | Posted in Fashion Week, Runway Show | No comments »

This V magazine video of the models standing around before they walk is kind of boring, but we’re fascinated by every molecule of this brand so there you have it. And on that note, we see via FashionCopious that Cathy Horyn has decided to go in on Alex Wang’s collection, calling him a thief and not even a very good one at that. It’s always entertaining when someone of Horyn’s power decides to hate on a popular designer/artist/entertainer to that degree. It’s almost as though her goal is to let you know how smart and informed she is and how the masses may be fooled but not her. Reminds me a little of Camille Paglia’s recent dismissal of Lady Gaga. So heavy handed as to mean more about Paglia than anyone else.